We’re huge fans of Northcote’s Il Melograno – gorgeous food, just like nonna makes… if we had a Sicilian nonna! Il Melograno’s gelati used to be produced in-house, but in February 2018 the gelati making part of the enterprise shifted to Fitzroy, and became Gelato Compá.
The tiny gelateria’s signature blue and red give bright pops of colour in the sleek concrete interior. Half a dozen stools line up at the window-side bench. It’s a perfect spot for chatting with the friendly servers while quaffing an affogato.
The gelato is made from scratch, according to traditional Sicilian recipes and using all-natural ingredients. Fresh fruits. Nuts are roasted and ground in-house. Even the gelati bases are crafted individually for each flavour, rather than using the same base for everything. And to keep everything fresh by minimising exposure to the air, shiny lidded pozzetti are used to store the gelati.
The gelati menu includes around a dozen regular flavours, plus a handful of sorbetti. The specials menu adds a few more seasonal options and there are several vegan flavours. And – perfect for summer refreshment – Sicilian granita. Or you can explore the coffee options – including the aforementioned affogato.
Not only is Compá’s gelati available in cups, cones or take-away tubs, but also on sticks, in cannoli or as that Sicilian breakfast favourite – three scoops in a brioche.
Orange infused ricotta is on Compá’s regular menu – it’s always been our star flavour at Il Melograno and Benny could not resist. My pick: a cone with classic pistachio gelato, paired with citrus infused strawberry sorbetto. A nice touch – our gelati were sprinkled with crushed pistachios.
Our return visit to Compá explored more gelati options.
I was intrigued by the Caldo-Freddo (‘hot-cold’), a traditional dessert from Trapani, in the west of Sicily. Two scoops of gelato between two layers of sponge cake brushed with spiced rum, topped with whipped cream, covered with warm dark chocolate ganache and sprinkled with chopped pistachios. Benny suggested ordering one between the two of us – not a chance, no way was I sharing. Our friendly server advised that any of the chocolate gelati would be a bit overpowering coupled with the rich ganache, so I chose our favourite orange infused ricotta plus pistachio gelato. Awesomely good.
Benny chose a cannolo, filled with salted macadamia gelato and Dutch chocolate gelato, finished with whipped cream, a drizzle of dark chocolate ganache and some crushed pistachios. It made him very happy.
Compá – Sicilian for ‘mate’ – still makes the gelati for Il Melograno.
UPDATE: Compá has closed.
A modern interpretation of a traditional Sicilian gelateria. All the gelati are individually crafted from all-natural ingredients. Plus great service from the friendly staff.
Gelato Compá
381 Brunswick Street
Fitzroy Vic 3065
T: (03) 8415 1684
W: https://www.facebook.com/gelatocompa/
